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Day 4: Antelope Canyon

Part 3: Zion National Park

Part 2: From Idaho to Page

Part 1: From Seattle to Idaho
Total Distance: 1611 miles

Part 1: The absence of a prologue

In my head, each of these posts was supposed to have a prologue. Nothing significant, some random thought or quotation to get the ball rolling. Usually, completed unrelated to the topic at hand. However, I cannot think of one for Antelope Canyon. Actually, hold that thought. I just thought of one.

Antelope. Ant-Elope. –CeG <oBelIX>

Part 2: Upper Antelope Canyon

It was a sunny day, the only day in the first five days of my vacation where a desert would behave like a desert and not display weather patterns similar to Seattle. The canyon was open and in all honesty was a total disappointment. This is because:

  • There is no time to stare at the canyon walls themselves
  • There is no peace
  • One is being constantly pushed around by the system (I say system because I have listened to a lot of Zen today)
  • There are too many people
  • It costs 40 usd and feels like a money making scam

Bottom line: Go to ZNP – the Antelope Canyons make for great photographs but should you ever be planning a trip out into Southern Utah, Antelope had better not be the reason for it. There are great pictures to be had. The canyons are beautiful. The experience leaves far too much to be desired. There are many other places in the world that will leave you feeling cheerier and happier, deep down inside than Antelope.

Part 3: Lake Powell

A nice-looking lake? I did not jump into it. The best I can say from personal experience is that one of the gentlemen who work at the Marina was kind enough to mail a postcard for me. This, to me, is a rather big thing, postcards are important but in the grand scheme of things – this may not be relevant at all.

Part 4: Horseshoe Bend

Arizona saved its best for last. –CeG <oBelIX>

I have a predeliciton for sunsets. Sunsets rarely disappoint. Even cloudy sunsets, as long as there is either a vast open space or the absence of people, the silence that accompanies most sunsets makes them worth going for. In Arizona, the Colorado got lazy at a certain point. Instead of making a hole through the rock it decided to take its own sweet time and go around it. I suspect it lost a bet becaue immediately after going around this big rock it turned back on itself rather than going further somewhere else. The result of all this though is perhaps the most beautiful sight I saw. A sunset. A vast sagebrush desert. A bend in a canyon. Tranquility.

Part 5: Utah-20

After the sunset, I headed back towards Seattle (the fact that I am writing this from Wyoming is another story which I shall write about tomorrow). This was the fourth time I drove towards Kanab (at a very sane speed I will add, I did not cross more than 30 above the limit at any point). I then took US-89 which for the part upto Zion is okay and the part after that is decent enough. Nothing much to complain about, not too much traffic, rather straight. Somewhere near Bryce though, I needed to go faster. At that point, the plan was still to make it to Seattle which required me to get atleast 350 miles or so in so that I’d have only 900 miles to do on Monday and be back to work on Tuesday. I decided to move on to the Interstate. I do maintain that state highways provide for the more entertaining drives. Interstates are faster though and safer and easier to drive, especially late at night. UT-20 is a state highway that goes from US-89 to I-15. This, ladies and gentlemen, is a gem of a road. If I was a touch sleepy before, this woke me up. It was late at night so I have no idea about what I actually drove through. The road is very very good. It twists and turns and is nicely banked. I stayed in a combination of second and third which is always good. There are lots of signs that warn about deer that wish to cross the road (along with other assorted wildlife) but I found none. I guess the deer were fast asleep then.


Day 3: Zion National Park

Part 2: From Idaho to Page

Part 1: From Seattle to Idaho

Total Distance today: 0

Total Distance covered: 1370 miles

This post comes to you from the same vacation rental in Page, AZ. There has been no change in displacement and I haven’t done any driving ergo no change in mileage. The first half of this post was composed in Page, AZ. The second half was composed in Wyoming.

ren why y. –CeG <oBelIX>

Part 1: Sunrises

There was a very beautiful sunrise today which I slept through. This was disappointing. The plan, when I left was to see every sunrise and sunset. The first sunset was somewhere over Oregon. The first sunrise was missed because of a delayed wakeup. The second sunset was somewhere on NV 319. The second sunrise was missed because I slept through it. Again. This smells suspiciously like a pattern. However, I still have more sunrises to see!

Part 2: Arizona, US 89

The scenery is much better during the day. –CeG <oBelIX>

Cheap, ten dollar glasses break rather easily.

We drove back on US-89, the part that had been a drive from point A to point B. Today morning, well, morning tending to afternoon, we drove back on the same road. The road was far more beautiful in the day. The scenery is very vast and much drier and more canyon-ee. The canyons are strikingly similar to the ones in which Wiley Coyote engages in battle with Road Runner. They are like lines of altitude on a map. There is no straightness and no reason that I can fathom to their structure. There are isolated peaks on the horizon. These are occasionally pointy and sometimes white.


Part 4: Zion National Park


This is a very good national park. At this point of time I got lost when composing this post. I did not know what I wanted to say. The answer was provided by a passage of Zen a couple of days later (somewhere in Utah) where the narrator talks about stuckness. I was stuck back then, in that little fake vrbo in Utah. I was totally stuck because I was in two places, I did not know what all I wanted to talk about and I did not know the order in which I wanted to talk about those things. This makes a difference – a fairly important difference – one that I know rather well – enumerating what all needs to be done is the first step in doing so. I will go ahead and write paragraphs for all the things I think are important from that day.

There is a tunnel. It was built a long time ago, such a long time ago that when I first heard of when it was built I was surprised. It is a marvel of engineering excellence from my point of view, to have had the technique to build such tunnels so long ago. Before I describe this tunnel though, it is necessary to describe how I got to this tunnel. I was driven there, in a SUV which seems to be a rather marvelous, this was a VW Tiguan and I feel it is rather nice, powerful, grippy (having never driven it ofcourse – the guy who has a thousand miles to drive till he gets back home had better not drive). I am still anti-SUV, they are rather big, rather fat and when one is driving one is far off the ground. However, the VW Tiguan (which is what I think it is – it might have been a Touareg) was better than any other SUV I’ve driven (except for a certain someone’s RAV4 – driving which I first realized how unexpected it is to not have a clutch pedal) has some oomph, some jazz, some ability to get its butt in gear and go when asked. The other group (there were a total of 9 of us in that VRBO in Page, AZ) were driving a Chevrolet which was an abomination. The one time I sat in it, the drive had to rev it till the engine whined and complained before it decided to get its butt in gear.

Coming back now to this tunnel: it is rather impressive. The road at the end is even more so. It is impressive in the sense that had I been driving I would not have felt the need to blast down it. This is partly due to the view surrounding the road and partly due to the old gentleman who was cycling uphill. The road goes through the canyon and the views are breathtaking. There is also the opportunity for listening to echoes here. I will point out though that going “mooo” in a deep guttural voice is not the best way to demonstate the echocity of the canyons.

ZNP has this amazing idea of using a shuttle service. It is actually very logical. Instead of having everybody drive all around they have designated the main road (think GTSR:GNP::this road:ZNP) as a road on which only shuttles are allowed. This helps control pollution and crowding and parking (which in India I would never have though as a problem). The shuttles leave from the visitor center and go up the ZNP scenic drive and stop at all the points on the way.

Part 4.5: ZNP continued – What to see and What not to see

The deer in ZNP are rather underfed. –CeG <oBelIX>

CeG <Butcher> defeats CeG<obelIX> at chess nowadays.

Due to circumstances that involved a basketball, a thigh and a pulled muscle I cannot describe Angel’s Landing which is the premier hike in ZNP. I will do this the next time I did in ZNP. However, given a basketball, a thigh and a pulled muscle, there is still a lot to see in ZNP. The bus ride itself is amazing. The roads are red. The canyon walls are tall. The river, while narrow, has a look of real menace. This is mostly because it is not the crystal clear streams in the PNW, it is also not the white water from rapids near Rainier, it is a chocolate sediment brown. It says, “I broke those canyons apart – are you sure you want to take off those shoes with blue shoelaces and step inside?” At the temple of Sinawava (yes, I know I have jumped ahead without defining what the fuck the Temple of Sinawava is but when you go to ZNP you will not need this) there is a riverwalk. It lets you walk along the Snake river to where it narrows. I could not go further up because it had flashed and flooded. It looked rather pretty though – totally worth doing.

There are other big stops on the bus though. There is the weeping rock which if you have gone to GNP will not seem spectacular. Infact, the only real thing I remember of this is a couple of cute kids with their parents. The kids were rather intelligent and young – of perhaps the age when crayons seem edible and hippopotami is an acceptable plural for hippopotamus. This should serve as some indication of my opinion of the weeping rock.

I had great expectations from the Emerald Pools. In the PNW, most lakes are named without much fanfare and far below their actual wow-factor. Colchuck is called Colchuck, not “Lake-Blow-Your -Mind-Away-With-My-Awesome-Turquoise-And-Chilly-Alpineness”. I saw the name “Emerald Pool” and it auto-expanded in my head as, “The-Pool-Where-The-Water-Is-This-Colour-Of-Green-That-Inspires-One-To-Write-Great-Essays.” Suffice to say this is not the case. Infact, I believe the Emerald Pools were thus named only because hallucinogenic substances were legal in Utah at the time the Emerald Pools were first discovered.

obelIX’s first law of waterfalls: The prettiness of a waterfall is no indication of the awesomeness of a hike.

Tldr: ZNP is worth seeing – there are many moments when I had to pause and take a breath and then carry on. This is due to the sheer vertical cliffs that the Virgin River has carved through the rock. There is quite a lot of rather useless trivia about how the river has done this in my head but I will not bore you with it).

Dieting is very common in ZNP.

Day 2: Idaho to Page, AZ

Part 1: From Seattle to Idaho

Total Distance today: 740 miles

Total Distance covered: 1370 miles

Average Speed for 1370 miles: ~71 mph

This post comes to you from a vacation rental in Page, AZ.

Part 1: Idaho

Idaho, there is not much to say. Really.- CeG <oBelIX>

I do not mean any offence to the state, I am sure it is very beautiful. Unfortunately, owing to a shift in timezones and a little oversleeping I ended up leaving Twin Falls at 10:40 in the morning after picking up a footlong at a subway and filling up with gas. It was a memorable morning but that is perhaps for some other time. The 10:40 departure worried me because I had originally thought I’d leave at 9 in the morning. US-93 had very little traffic. It seemed mostly agricultural in Idaho and there was really not much to say to it. The narrator was getting into the topic of Phaedrus, introducing him so to speak and I listened to Zen for many hours.

Part 2: Nevada

Nevada is nice to drive in. –CeG <oBelIX>

Fear not, I will give specifics. The city of Jackpot lies on the border of Nevada and Idaho and US-93 gets interesting just after. It goes through a series of hills and by now the land is covered in scrub and sagebrush. It is arid now, but a different kind of arid from Ellensburg. The dry hills of Eastern Washington are more rocky, they have more grit, substance, a feeling of power to them. The word in Hindi, which would convey this is chattan. The arid hills in Nevada, while covered with scrubbery (yes, I’m continuing to use this word so that it gets imbibed into the con) seem very weak. Eroded. Sandy. They land is also flatter so after climbing a hill I could see where the road goes for many miles. There was also very little traffic on US-93 which surprised me. I expected it to be packed and the going to be slow. The going was in fact slow, based on the average speeds I maintained through Nevada in th elater part of the day.

Towns here are found only where there is water. The city of Wells is founded next to a hill which I presume is high enough to cause the rain carrying clouds (where on Earth do these come from?) to shed water. There was not much more of interest on US-93 except that I was now doing far above the recommended speed limit. I had a companion as well, a Honda Accord from Greenlake. He followed me for many miles, glad he had someone ahead of him who was going.

I also learnt something rather interesting about Highway Patrol. While cruising at a nice rate of speed I happened to spot a highway patrol car in front and put the car in sixth and settled down at a nice 70 miles per hour an acceptable distance behind him. The radar detector was silent as a, well, umm, I have nothing to complete that simile. When a car would come by in the opposite direction the radar detector would go berserk, beeping and telling me there is something ahead to be careful of. I conclude that highway patrol is clever, they do not keep their radar on all the time when they are cruising, preferring instead to turn it on when needed. This led me to alter my driving style to slowing down to a sensible 5-10 over the speed limit when an oncoming car was approaching and speeding up after identifying it. This worked well in Nevada, Utah and Arizona, on state highways, because of the lack of traffic.

Part 3: The Humboldt National Forest

This was one of those pieces of road that put a smile on my face. Right after Ely, the road towards the Great Basin National Park goes through this forest. The forest exists on a set of hills. There is a road through these hills. This road is amazing.

Part 4: Great Basin National Park

If you go to Las Vegas and do not go to this national park then you are missing out. –CeG <oBelIX>

A sealed packet of Cheetos can explode if you change elevation fast enough. –CeG <oBelIX>

There was a volcano in the middle of what is now Nevada. This volcano, which is now known as Wheeler’s Peak stands 10,000 feet in the middle of the desert. While this in itself is not very large (re: Everest) it is tall enough to completely alter the geography of the surrounding areas. Great Basin National Park, a national park that had very few visitors so close to the Labour Day weekend. There are two primary attractions:

  • Lehman Caves
  • A 12 mile scenic drive up to Wheeler Peak

I did not do the caves (see above: I was late). I did drive up to Wheeler Peak. It is a 12 mile one-way drive and took about 20-30 minutes. I was going at a sensible pace, nothing like Hurricane Ridge, mostly because the road is untrustworthy. It is neither well banked nor smooth. There is no shoulder, there are just a few shrubs, a very pretty green, between you and a very airbag-explosion-inducing-mountain-side-should-you-go-over. The views are decent, not epic. The interesting thing to keep an eye out for is the change in flora. At the desert floor it is all sagebrush. As I went higher, it gave way to plants that required more water. Trees. Really verdant trees. It was remarkable. The exhibit at the visitor center mentioned that every thousand feet in elevation provides the same vegetation as a 600 mile increase in distance towards the pole (goop: horrible, I need a word for that).

I had a grandstand view at lunchtime!

Part 5: An unforgettable drive

The road from GBNP back to US-93 is, umm, empty. It is also banked very well. It also has nice sweeping curves. It allows you many moments of pure exhilaration. These moments are derived simply from the drive, the scenery, while not bad is not remarkable in any way.

US-93 on the other hand, after Majors and till Pioche, is a beautiful drive. The open space in the desert makes me nervous. Wary is the right word. I do not feel that way driving through the greenery in the Pacific Northwest. The desert commands respect because it is so open and so vast and because it shows you its vastness. The last time I drove through Nevada and Arizona I did not feel this. I presume it was because I had the company of three other gentlemen. This time, alone, with a narrator that was talking about Emmanuel Kant and his Critique of Pure Reason I was very aware.

At some point, I noticed a thunderstorm on the horizon, due south. US-93 heads due South. It is interesting to look at rain from far away, it looks like sheets of water, localized. The thunderstorm decided to plomp itself right on US-93 and unleash its full fury upon me. There was lightning and I recalled a Physics teacher telling me, you can’t get struck by lightning inside a metal shell. I do not remember why. I was relieved. The rain was, well, typhoonous? Hurricanous? It was slapping the windshield. I opened the window and put a hand outside and the force of the raindrops stung. It was a nerve-wracking twenty minutes, spent driving at 40 miles an hour. Unforgettable.

Gives a whole new meaning to the phrase, localized showers


Part 6: Nevada 318

A great road is when you want to turn down the music and listen to the car. –CeG <oBelIX>

From US-93 till the Utah border. Just, well, drive it and you will know.

Part 7: Zion National Park

Not really. I lied. I did not go to Zion. However, at 8PM when an exit on I-15 says “Kolba Canyon, Zion National Park” and the words Scenic Drive below it there was no way I was not taking that exit. Especially since the tearing through Nevada and Utah had caused me to gain quite a bit of time. Things to note:

  • The road is red
  • I assisted a suicidal frog fulfill its desires
  • I need more practice at night time photography
  • Khatta Meetha is nicer than Cheetos

By now, I was sufficiently tired for the day. The remainder involved a drive, just getting from point A (ZNP) to point B (Page). The radar detector saved me in a town called Federnio or something like that, a sheriff sitting with the lights out. I think I drove over some very beautiful scenery on US-89 A and but it was too dark to make out what was going on.

Day 1: From Seattle to Idaho

Total Distance: 630 miles.

Total Time: ~10 hr

Total Time in Car: ~8.5 hr

This post comes to you from a cheap motel in Twin Falls, ID. Six Hundred and Thirty miles, give or take a few from Redmond. Day 1 of the road trip to Arizona. Let us go chronologically shall we.

Part 1: Departure

It takes a while to get onto I-90 from Redmond. –CeG <oBelIX>

Useful things to take on a road trip:

  • A radar detector
  • A GPS
  • Audio

If you are driving alone then you should have a fairly good idea of the route you need to take. Fortunately, my destination for the first day was in Idaho and a simple route. I-90 East to Ellensburg, I-82 till I-84 and then I-84 till Twin Falls. It is also useful to keep the following easily accessible (I keep them on the passenger seat):

  • Water
  • Tissue paper
  • Snacks (Haldiram’s Khatta Meetha)
  • Espresso Shots
  • Halls/Altoids

The trip itself started off bang on time and it took a long time to actually get on to I-90. Well, not a long time in terms of actual minutes but a long time in terms of the initial nervousness that makes ten minutes feel like twenty. Once on I-90 of course, the trip began in earnest. I will not talk much about I-90, it is a nice drive but by now the novelty of the scenery has worn off. The cascades did look beautiful, all the mountain tops were covered in clouds. There was a slow down near the lake where all the construction is going on and another near Ellensburg (there is always traffic there). Nonetheless, I made good time through I-90. It was tiring though, unintelligent of me to have not put on the sunglasses. I did listen to some nice music, courtesy of someone who I will refer to as Why. Among the songs I liked or remembered were:

  • Something by Gloria Gaydner, I forget the song right now
  • A song in Arabic, Albina or something like that
  • Eyes Like Yours
  • The song that goes, “I’m too sexy for this boat, too sexy for my shoes, too sexy for this hair, too sexy for the boots, too sexy for the water, too sexy for the moon” …

Part 2: Yakima

I-82 is pretty. –CeG <oBelIX>

By Ellensburg, the scenery has changed. The greenery has reduced. There is more bush. There is more scrubbery (if there is shrubbery and there can be scrubs then why is Microsoft Word ™ putting red squiggley lines under scrubbery). I-82 off from I-90 at around Ellensburg and immediately climbs over a few hills. The last time I drove this road it was 5AM and I was returning from a night of meteor gazing at Goldendale (something I highly recommend doing). Anyway, there is a viewpoint which is not as epic as it looks and a road which is rather nice. Continuing onwards the scenery gets much better. The hills have a little more brutishness in them, the scrubs are fewer and fewer and you can see more of the rocks. There is an exit that says “Military Base” which looks like something CeG<xirtam> may try. This is the part where the drive started to get interesting – up till now it had been routine. Infact, one of the laws of drivingness, and I am sure I am discovering these, is that the enjoyment factor of a drive is inversely related to whether the road is one you have travelled before.

I-82 continues past this gorgeous, desert (well, far more desert-like than the other side of the Cascades) scenery and into Yakima valley where there is greenery. Not tall pine trees greenery but smaller farm greenery. There are lots of hoardings for wine places and other such “Tourist Activities”. At this time, I was listening to NPR which in this area is on 88.9 FM. It gave me an idea of how plugged out I was, there was apparently a vote in the British Parliament and David Cameron was slapped on the face (figuratively of course – Why will tell me if I misused figuratively over there) and told “Don’t go messing around in Syria.” The IRS has decided that it will allow same sex couples the same benefit as different sex couples regardless of whether the state they are in (by state I mean Geographical state in case some of you are inebriated while reading this and parse that as a state of matter – ala – solid, liquid, gas, bose-einstein condensate). Anyway, it was nice listening to NPR.

The only other thing of interest that happened was the radar detector paying off yet again. It beeped as I was about to crest a hill and I got the car back down to a sensible 75 from 80 (I don’t speed much in Washington State) and lo, behold, there was a cop, sitting in the bushes, in the middle of the road, waiting for someone to come over the hill at speed and ticket him (or her – for my readers with strong feminist tendencies – I do not have any presumption that the fairer sex is not prone to going fifteen-twenty over the speed limit).

Part 3: Oregon

I like Oregon. –CeG <oBelIX>

By now, I was tired. Well, by tired, I mean mostly irritated at not having worn sunglasses and it was reasonably bright outside. And about this time is when I entered Oregon. I-82, enters Oregon across the Columbia river with much more fanfare than I-5. At I-5 there is the city of Vancouver that stands as a big bright billboard stating, “Hey You, Portland is coming”. On I-82 there is no such city. There is a board that says, “Weigh station”. You go over a small hill. You see an expanse of blue divide the landscape in two. And then you see two bridges, one for each side of the carriageway. These are nice bridges, they have arches that look yellow, a nice yellow ochre which goes well against the blue of the river. Ergo, I state that I-82 is a nicer entry into Oregon than I-5.

I-82 merges into I-84 and I took the road East – this was the last major route change I needed to make and there is about 180 odd miles of driving in Oregon on I-84. The speed limit is 65 which is woefully incorrect and I moseyed along at a nice 80 miles to the hour with absolutely no indication of the police (this includes the band as well). The first part of I-84 in Oregon was flat and farmland and it climbed over some hills where there was a view point. This view point would have been really nice had the sun been lower on the horizon. Unfortunately, that was not the case and the sun was fairly bright making any kind of photography a pointless exercise. So, I got back into the car and hit the road.

At this point, I will bitch about the iPod. It took me practically forever to get the damn thing setup last ngiht, and download the audiobook (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance) on to the blessed thing (the Audible version is very good for 12 dollars). When plugged in to the car, it would skip and made this horrible whine. In the end, I ditched the iPod and used my old old Kindle to play the audiobook.

Part 4: Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance

The first time I read this book I was perhaps in school. I skimmed through it and hardly understood a word. The second time I read this book I was wiser. I understood some bits of it but the most important understanding was that I would need to read it again to understand more of it. This trip, especially with its few thousand miles of driving alone seems like the perfect time to indulge. The audiobook from audible is also well narrated and the narrator has a deep-ish voice and good enunciation. It is not like jarring heavy metal and is pleasing to the ear.

I will not describe the book here in any form of detail. This is mostly because when driving on a nice empty road with an audio book playing I usually tend to listen in a very different sense of the word listen. It’s going on in the background, my mind is rather empty, devoid of absolutely anything. Every once in a while a phrase will register, like when the narrator talks about how if human consciousness is a river then in earlier eras it had a well defined course and in the twentieth century it has overflown it’s banks or when he mentions how he takes back country roads because it is about making good time with the emphasis being on good and not time. It is very difficult to recall exactly what was said in the book but since the mind is not listening actively the words are being processed and stored at a far more intrinsic level. The understanding will be greater when something in the future hits the right spot and brings it back up.

I just re-read that last paragraph. I guess I am tired but perhaps I will elaborate on it some other day. Or perhaps, as that is rather against the nature of this blog I will take it out all together.

Part 5: Oregon and Idaho

I-84 is a nice highway –CeG<oBelIX>

Idaho is flat with a chance of hills! –CeG <oBelIX>

I have said this before, in a post about Portland IIRC. I-84 East of Portland is beautiful to drive. There are hills and the Columbia river. After Hermiston, I-84 today was fun to drive as well. After all that view point and farmland stuff. There is a point where it gets hilly and goes through a set of mountains. The road here is beautiful, even for a dual carriageway interstate. I was wishing I was on something more like a state highway, a two lane road where the turns would be far more fun to take. Regardless, it was joyous to drive this at around 8 in the evening when there was little to no traffic. The mountains or hills that I am taking about were when I was 400 odd miles out of Redmond.

Immediately after these mountains is the border between Idaho and Oregon. It was dark by now and I was tired and hence this was more on autopilot. Also, in Boise Idaho, the radar detector found a cop who followed me all through Boise waiting for the moment that I would step on the throttle and go above 65. I kept it at 60 and outwaited him. It is important to note that if you have a different interpretation of the speed limit than the gentlemen who drive the big dodge chargers with lights on them, do invest in a radar detector. It has already paid back its money’s worth in tickets. And if you know me then just send me a message, I’d be happy to lend it to you if I am not using it.

There is much more to say but I am tired now and it is 2AM Mountain Standard Time. Tomorrow is many more miles of driving, listening to Phaedrus and the Great Basin National Park.

Going To The Sun

Long overdue, this is the post about Glacier National Park which is, I have to grudgingly admit a better place than Olympic National Park in quite a few ways. There are some common themes/undertones to this post that I will list out below:

  • The mountains
  • The waters
  • The U’s
  • The roads and the drives

Also, useful information is summarized below:

  • It is 500 miles from Seattle to East Glacier, about a 12 hour drive with breaks (and a crap car)
  • East Glacier has better access to the park. West Glacier has better facilities
  • Skip Two Medicine, Many Glacier is a must see
  • Hike. Hike. Hike.
  • Sunrises FTW/

Photo Credits go to several people, TK, Suma, Madhav, Urja, Muru etc.

The Drive

Glacier is about 500 odd miles away and easily-easily drivable. The drive is due east of here, I-90 and then a bunch of Montana Highways. The going to GNP was at night so not much of the scenery was visible. I will say though that the Montana state roads have speed limits of eighty and well, lets be honest, there is nothing there so in a competent car it would be challenging to keep to 80. Stay alert though, deer frolic about for no good reason and I do think that hitting a deer is not the most intelligent thing in the world.

The place we stayed at was a vacation rental from The lady in charge had a gazillion questions to ask but did provide us with a very luxurious house in the middle of Whitefish (which has a lake which I did not see). Courtesy pictures below:

the view of the lake from the house


Glacier National Park

The park itself is a rectangle. There are several entrances but the two prominent ones are the ones on the East (at Apgar) also known as East Glacier and the one on the West (at St. Mary’s) also known as West Glacier. The Going-To-The-Sun-Road (GTSR) connects these two and there is a whole section on this very nice road. US-2 runs East-West across the southern boundary of the park and I believe US-91 and US-89 run North-South parallel to the edges of the park passing through East and West Glacier respectively. We stayed near the entrance at East Glacier. I would recommend staying at West Glacier because it provides more convenient access to the park.


Going To The Sun

Lake McDonald

Leaving Whitefish, the drive towards Glacier is fairly pleasant after escaping the towns and the cities and other such things. There is a portion that has magnificent views, a mountain to the left, a windy road in front, a river to your right and a railroad on a hillside beyond. The railroad I am told goes from Seattle to GNP and is very scenic. It certainly looks so. The first stop on GTSR is the Apgar Visitor Center (where the gelato stand is rather nice). It is right next to the first big lake, Lake McDonald and should provide ample opportunities for you to sing OldMcDonaldHadAFarmEEYaEEYaOOOOO. Do not seek solitude on the Apgar side of this lake, it’s a bustling center of activity. There’s a motel, a Kayak rental place and many infants and children and bigger specimens of the human population milling around.

Lake McDonald at Apgar


To find Solitude, drive on GTSR and head east. GTSR goes along the lake to the very end of the lake and there are many spots to just pull out. Choose a spot where you don’t see any people and walk down to the lake. It is a nice lake and I’d give this four out of five stars (I am rather spoilt for lakes because I can afford to give this a 4 out of 5 stars). It is worthwhile to just focus first on the waves and then at a point on the horizon and then back again on the waves.

Mesmerizing waves


And crystal clear water


Avalanche Lake

As a quick warm up, there’s a short four mile hike to nearby Avalanche Lake. As far as hikes go, it is very dissimilar to the hikes in the Pacific Northwest. The hike follows Avalanche creek which as you go further becomes a roaring collection of little eddies, rapids and waterfalls. The flowers here are different too.

Water in motion


White Flowers


The other thing which must be mentioned is the difference in the landscape. I am not a botanist but I notice that the trees are not the same. And then there are the mountains. These are big, proper mountains, very dissimilar to the mountains in Washington. The only time I’ve ever felt awed, mildly so, was at Navaho Pass, where the continuity of the Stuart range took my breath away. At Glacier, the mountains are bigger, imposing. They feel like the mountains atop Moria. They feel solemn. Majestic. The hike itself continues on, climbing a little, falling a little; nothing too strenuous. There is a lot of vegetation and some bugs as you get closer to the lake, just mosey on through that patch. The lake itself has a greenish tinge. It does not feel quiet by the lake; there are far too many people to enjoy solitude in the evening. It is still a sight to behold, set amidst mountains that are peppered with countless glacier-melt waterfalls.

Avalanche Lake



GTSR continues. It follows a stream for a few miles. There are beautiful sights to the right (if heading east). There are also mountains behind and stopping at the pull-outs or scenic views is recommended. The road soon leaves the stream and starts winding its way up a mountain-side, heading towards Logan’s pass, across the Rockies. This portion of the road is beautiful to drive. It is twisty and bendy and incredibly smooth. However, during the day, GNP is overcrowded. Stuffed. Packed. There will be no scope to enjoy just the drive so accept it and look at the views. Also, do get a car that drives well, driving a hundred-ton-SUV-with-an-insipid-automatic-transmission will only serve to exacerbate your irritation. The only remedy, stop often, enjoy the views.

Glomp. If that doesn’t do it for you then look at the next one


All right, I lied, the picture above is better, but there is something about this …


How about this for a view eh? That is the portion of GTSR going along the stream.


Like I said, take a nice car …


Logans Pass

GTSR climbs on relentlessly until it reaches Logan’s Pass. This is very obvious, there is a big sign that says, “Logan’s Pass” and a turn after which there is no more elevation gain. At Logan’s Pass is a visitor center, a crowded parking lot, a snowfield and more mountains. Lots more mountains. There are hikes here and in July, on the 4th, give or take, there were wildflowers blooming. There are quite a few people here who do add a little bit to the entertainment, especially the underprepared ones who walk on the snow in sneakers. The proper way to travel on snow is on top of your behind, sliding. For the nitpickers, the use-the-right-word-instead-of-a-whole-sentence-so-that-you-can-get-to-the-point-quicker, the word is glissade. Also, binoculars or a mighty zoom lens (which if you are a guy makes me suspect you are overcompensating) is a good idea. There are those weird goat-like-mountainous-creatures, no wait, I mean, mountain-like-goat-creatures, well, the things in the picture below.


Wildflowers. If you are a teenage girl, this is a great place to get a profile picture to make your girlfriends jealous.

At this point, I will yammer on for a little while on the topic of those goatlike-creatures-for-whom-I-am-too-lazy-to-look-up-the-appropriate-name. I had the misfortune/luxury of meeting them up close. From the confines of a car in a parking lot. From the confines of a car with the engine running in a parking lot. From the confines of a car with the engine running and someone not at all afraid of running over these unnamed-horny-beasts behind the wheel in a parking lot. Anyway, after that bit of butchering of the language, I will get back to the point and don’t you dare, not for a moment think that the entire purpose of this paragraph was to butcher the language and just ramble. On. There is a point and I am getting to it. Slowly. These, I will use the word, things, to get to the point quicker, are rather disgusting. There was a flock of them in the parking lot at Logan’s Pass one fine morning. My friend was enamoured clicking away. It is interesting to observe them for a minute or ten but not much longer. They do not seem interested in humans, they seemed fairly content with licking the tarmac for any food. They are yucky as well, peeing everywhere and preferring to expose their behinds to humans with cameras. The class hierarchy in this species is also very hard to gauge. They are sprightly though and look built to gander up the mountain slopes like Chintu.


St. Mary’s Lake

Heading further east on GTSR the road starts going downhill. It’s a nice drive plagued by traffic during the day. There are far too many motorized means of locomotion to make the drive enjoyable. There are also these ancient red people carriers, made if I recall correctly by Ford. They are used as taxis, free transport from one end of the park to another. It’s a sensible idea and I would recommend doing this if it is possible to plan around it. The car does offer a lot of freedom though, so it’s a tradeoff like with most things in life. These, apparently are very expensive to maintain.

People Carriers used since a long time ago

The next big attraction on GTSR after a little while is St. Mary’s Lake at the eastern edge of the park. It is a long lake, stretching east to west. It is flanked by mountains. It’s also a nice azure (forgive the nomenclature here) and a good place to stop and get your tripod out and take a photograph.

St. Marys


At the east entrance to St. Mary’s is a lodge where there is a gift-shop, a concierge that is kind enough to send out stamped mail for you – you can send postcards from here – and a restaurant that has rather nice food. The beef stroganoff was not up to the mark (based on feedback from a friend, I don’t eat beef) but the rest of the food was some of the best we had on the trip. The bread was fresh and very soft and it is sad that there are no pictures of the food.


Two Medicine

South of St. Mary’s is another entrance to GNP. Getting there involves a short drive on US-89 and US-89 is marvelous. The scenery is one of huge mountains with U-shaped valleys on the right (if you are heading south) and rolling hills, pastures, meadows on the left. The occasional bovine (yes, I used it as a noun) will cross your path. There are signs which proclaim that the shop or restaurant in question has the best blueberry or hickenberry or some-other-berry pancakes. The road twists and turns and is beautifully graded. The name of the area in question is “Two Medicine” and having not paid much attention to the ranger lady I do not know why it is called so. This is a valley, tucked away with a lake. It is quiet, peaceful and serene. This area is also not very popular, there was just one more group there when we arrived. It is nice but in my opinion, not a must do.

u-shaped valleys, the view from US-89 S




US-2 runs east-west along the southern edge of the park. It is parallel to GTSR and a much quicker drive back. There are portions of US-2 that are also very enjoyable to drive. Especially in a thunderstorm. There is, once again, a river, mountains and a twisty road. A little bit of music, some half-decent company and most of the drive will be spent with a smile.



On the topic of sunsets I have a little bit to say. I’ve seen some very nice ones before. There was one somewhere in Arizona/Nevada, the in December, I called these lilac-fire, violet-burn, as we were driving West towards the Los Angeles (a city that I think has far too much sprawl). There were many in Oregon that we simply mind-boggling, where the Sun’s rays reflected on top of the clouds, setting them alight in Gold. There was one in Olympic which I remember more for the conversation. Chasing the Sun at Glacier National Park is a lot of fun. The trick is to start off at the East entrance to the park. The Sun will set over the west so when you are at St. Mary’s you see it play with the mountain tops. They were a very brilliant orange.

Sunset at St. Mary’s


Twilight West of Logan’s Pass, the Sun setting behind the mountains


Many Glacier and Iceberg Lake

Many Glacier is another entrance to GNP, situated North of St. Mary’s. There is not much to write about the drive from St. Mary’s to Many Glacier, think of Many Glacier as the starting point for spectacular scenery. There’s a hotel and a lodge there where there is food (pizza, reasonably nice pizza). There’s also multiple lakes and the opportunity to Kayak and you can hop from lake to lake in your kayak! Iceberg lake is a very delightful trail, it is like a five mile walk in the park. The elevation gain is minimal, the trail climbs a little at the start but levels out and is mostly flat, walking along a ridge. It is not a disappointing walk, there is much beauty to behold. The first perhaps mile or so is through forest and the next couple of miles are along a ridge on a side of a U-shaped valley. The mountain side had wildflowers, not a large number of them but a significant few and it is interesting to see the variety of the different wildflowers and that particular picture happens to have been misplaced. Halfway through the trek is a bridge over a river, a nice place to take a break along with the rest of the crowd. There is wildlife nearby, squirrels and such, and feeding them is perhaps not the most intelligent thing to do. Further on, as you climb higher and head up the U-shaped valley, to the very heart of the Glacier, the foliage starts to thin, just a little bit. There are chilly streams and ice-cold waterfalls of snowmelt gurgling and ready to provide refreshment. The first major water body is an un-name-able-blue. It’s not Iceberg Lake though, Iceberg Lake lies a few hundred meters farther on. It comes into view suddenly and is surprising – a mess of broken icebergs, a harmonious disarray.

Random beautiful shot


U-Shaped valleys, Iceberg Lake lies at the foot of those mountains


Looking back, if nothing else, I have a very clear understanding of what a valley carved by a Glacier looks like


The Bridge and the stream halfway through the hike


The un-name-able-blues


Iceberg lake


The sun and the clouds, reflected in the lake



St. Marys is a very nice spot to see the sunrise at GNP. And seeing a sunrise at GNP is worth the effort of waking up in the morning. GTSR is empty so you can enjoy the drive. There is a silence. Quiet. There is a chilly breeze so make sure to pack a cap. And after watching the sun rise, stop by downtown Whitefish for breakfast!



I do not need to caption this.


To say that I thoroughly enjoyed GNP is an understatement. There is pristine beauty there, especially when you are away from all the crowds in the parking lots and near the visitor centers.

Navaho Pass

This post is late. Quite a bit late I would say. Something of the order of a month. It’s about the average delay in me getting birthday presents to people.

Getting to this hike is a challenge in itself. Drive on I90 until you get close to Cle-Elum (be careful here, the cops love giving tickets) and then for what seems like hours on back country roads. The directions on the WTA site are scant but accurate. However, after a point, the macadam just disappears and the gravel that you drive doesn’t really care about what happens to your car.

The gate to the actual trail was closed and crowded and after asking a nice old lady about which way the trail is we got started. The first four odd miles are along side Stafford Creek which is big and large and noisy at the start but becomes smaller and smaller as you climb gently up the mountain. It’s still pleasant to walk by the stream because there is the option to occasionally just walk to it and put your hand in the water.

The junction with the Stafford Creek trail arrives with no ceremony whatsoever after four miles of walking and gentle climbing (yes, this climbing is gentle, it gets worse). The sad part is that the stream is no longer with you on the trek up the mountain. And this is quite a trek (or I was unfit) because I was stopping for rest breaks every fifteen minutes. Anyway, another mile or so of climbing gets you into a meadow where the wildflowers when we went in June were blooming in bits and pieces. There’s a nice variety of colour here, purple and white and blue. There’s also a stream. And people camping – this is a great place to camp!

There’s also the occasional wildlife that ambles across the trail. This is very uneducated wildlife, the kind of wildlife that never listened to their mom when she said, “look left, look right, once and then twice.” I was quick enough to capture this squirrel (another reminder that I have miles to go before I become a wildlife-photographer for National Geographic).

There’s more climbing involved though. Keep at it and the vegetation starts to thin, the wildflowers start to change. Higher up, the purples were replaced with whites.

This is the toughest part of the hike though the views to the left are of some significance. That is I think Harry’s Ridge (I think, this is from very foggy memory as people who’s birthdays I have forgot will attest). The sign at Navaho pass is rather obvious. It is right in front of you as you climb up on the ridge that connects Navaho Peak with The Stuart Range. This is the end of the trek, Navaho pass at about five and a half miles. The picture below shows the ridge (or is this a saddle?) from Navaho Peak towards Harry’s Ridge.

Do not stop here though. The trail continues onto Navaho peak on the right and in the distance. Making it to the peak seemed very tough and very hard. However, climbing a little farther is worth it, perhaps something like another two hundred feet. The thing is, that Navaho Pass is not tall enough to let you peek over its surroundings. The surroundings are worth peeking over for the reasons mentioned below:

Reason One: Mount Stuart

I’d only ever heard of Mount Stuart before this, another mountain in the cascades. Ho hum. There are plenty of those. However, this trek gets you up close and personal with this big fellow. And it is a big fellow. The Stuart range is, well, imposing. It gives new meaning to the term, a wall of granite (if that’s not a term I am coining it now).

Reason Two: More volcanoes to the south west

I’ve been told that is Mount Adams in the far far distance.

Reason Three: Rainier

This is just about visible from everywhere. It’s much better than what’s in the picture – I’m not good enough with a DSLR (yet) to capture these.

Tenerife Falls

A long time ago, in a land very close by, a group of merry men (and a lady) decided to walk up a mountain side.

Uthe sabke kadam...

This mountain side was wooded, covered with trees tall and green. Their trunks were all bare and rough and they sent out a vibe foreboding and tough.

Beauty of the Pacific northwest rainforest

The road swung left, then veered to the right and sometimes it went straight as an arrow in flight.

Raaste pe mod... Seedhe raste pe ye... tedhi si chaal hai... 62

Amongst them was Panda very very bold. He cantered without a thought in the middle of the road and did very little of what he was told.

The Panda in swagger :-D


In this troop of vagrant vagabonds, the mountain goat stood out. agile, spry and hiding his face, he bent over often to tie his shoe lace.

And... the "subject" tying his shoelaces... happens multiple times thru the hike :-)


The going was simple and the road wasn’t tough, except for a tree trunk in a section very rough.


The band then clambered over rocks oval and square. Scattered about here and there.

The leaders...

The panda who is a very good buddy sometimes would end up being the kebab mein haddi.

"Mere do anmol ratan"... Vasu's comment :-) IV clearly did not wish to be the third anmol ratan!

They came upon a waterfall, crystal and clear which filled MaddyD with a measure of cheer.


A little bit hence they halted, tired in stance


. “Lets do this bitches”, the Panda said in dance.

Pandey ji ke fundey :-D


They reached in a bit, the base of the falls. which they unanimously agreed were very tall.

Tenerife falls in glory!

It must be said at this time that I’m glad I’m not doing this in pantomime.

Chaaarrr spoiling my naice pic :-P


At the end, when all’s said and done

with the water falling onto their face

they all found something special

in that exhilarating place